Trip Reports

Training for the Matterhorn

Written by Leader Nigel Hooker, July 2014

Gagan wanted to increase her experience of roped scrambling and easy rock climbing in big boots prior to attempting the Matterhorn with Jagged Globe in August. Passing Idwal slabs we took advantage of Ordinary Route (Diff) on the great sweep of Idwal Slabs being free of other climbers and began our alpine style mountaineering day with some climbing pitches with a similarity to the Moseley slab on the upper part of the Matterhornís Hornli Ridge. After which we continued scrambling up to connect with the lower section of Seniorís Ridge and then across to Cneifion Arete, a Grade 3 scramble with sensational positions on a narrow arÍte all the while looking at the techniques and teamwork required to move efficiently and safely on varied scrambling terrain. Y Gribin ridge onto the Summit of Glyder Fach and a descent of the airy Bristly Ridge completed a sunny Alpine Mountain day.

Sunday started somewhat damper but rapidly improved as we made our way up the Grade 3 scrambles of Milestone Buttress Approach Route and the Milestone Continuation Route onto the North Ridge of Tryfan. Making our way onto the East Face of Tryfan we ascended the Bastow Variant Route (grade 2/3), Gagan by now able to move very quickly in this terrain. « | »

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