Trip Reports

Private Guiding, May 2014

Written by Leader Sam Leary, May 2014

The mountains of North Wales were the place to be this bank holiday weekend. Paul was hoping for a good foundation in rock climbing and rope skills in preparation for a Alps 4000ers trip and a larger expedition to the greater ranges later on this year.

Despite it being a bank holiday we had only two other parties at the Moelwyns so we could cherry pick the best routes. We warmed up on a mellow classic with four very different pitches including a faith n friction slab and a rather 'traditional' chimney. Paul took it all in his stride and was soon trusting his rock shoes to smaller and smaller holds. The rope work posed no problem either with figure of eight knots and clove hitches mastered in a flash.

Next was the steep, exposed classic route of Kirkus Direct. The start is properly overhanging but Paul utilised his new climbing and movement skills and swarmed up without any difficulty. He found the airy, technical pitch further up more challenging however once up this we cruised on through, even going for a super direct finish on unbelievable rough rock with great holds.

As one of Paul's aims for the weekend was rope skills as well as much climbing as we could pack in, we finished the day with an abseil and looking at how you would retreat off a climb. Despite all this we made last orders in the cafe where a very welcome coffee and huge slice of homemade carrot cake felt like a just reward for all our efforts.

Day two and Paul was keen to get into the higher mountains so opted for the ¸ber classic venue of Idwal slabs deep in the heart of one of the most beautiful valleys in Snowdonia. The totally different style of climbing caused no problems and with super slick gear and rope management by Paul we covered over 470 feet of Severe climbing, another 300 feet of scrambling, a slightly tricky descent and the walk off in just over two hours! In no time at all we were back at the bottom so up we went again by the UK ultra classic three star route Hope. Even the infamous twin cracks did not slow Paul down which allowed him to practise belay construction and do another abseil. We just had time to squeeze in coffee and warm cream scones at the Siabod Cafe in Capel before I dropped Paul off at the train station. A perfect end to a very fine weekend. « Previous report | Next report »

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