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14 top tips for Aconcagua

View from just above 5000m across the route from camp 1, Canada Place

Written by Tom Briggs, November 2018

With the Aconcagua season just a few weeks away, here are some tips for those going to the mountain this season or preparing for next one!

1. Don't neglect strength work in your training.
For high-altitude climbing where you're carrying a pack, you need strength in your legs, abdominals/core, back and shoulders, as well as a good aerobic base. Simply being 'fit' is not enough for climbing to nearly 7,000m. Anecdotally we've seen lots of endurance athletes (Ironman/Ultra runners) perform poorly at altitude. Consider reading books by Mark Twight and Steve House and/or get a training plan.

2. Cover up.
The sun is incredibly strong. The air is extremely dry. It's windy and dusty. Cover your face, mouth and eyes to protect them, otherwise you'll burn and have a very sore throat. Take two buffs, a hat with a brim and category 4 sunglasses.

3. Take ear plugs, an MP3 player and some games.
When the wind is battering the tent fabric, you'll be glad of ear plugs - essential for a decent nights' sleep. Music is nice to have as you'll be spending a lot of time in your tent just chilling. If you're in a group then games are fun to play.

4. Check all your gear works.
Before you leave home fit crampons to boots, check gaiters fit over double boots, make sure you have compression sacks for your sleeping bag and down gear. Does your layering system work with no redundancy? You don't want to be carrying extra stuff you don't need, nor do you want to skimp on warm gear.

5. Focus on HEF - Hands, Eyes and Feet.
You need all three to get you to the top. Take Down Mitts for summit day with handwarmers. Frostbite is a risk on Aconcagua, so look after your hands and don't think twice about buying the best quality mitts. Quality sunglasses and goggles are also worth the investment. Sunglasses need to be 'Category 4' and I would strongly recommend taking a spare pair. Double high-altitude boots are essential for the mountain - not just for the warmth per se, but so you can dry the separate inner boot in your sleeping bag each night. It's about being able to manage your feet. Take a brand new or at least completely dry and clean pair of socks in a sealed bag for use on summit day.

6. Spend 3 nights in Confluencia.
Most people move to base camp (4,365m) after two nights at Confluencia (3,395m). An extra night before making that 970m height gain means you will acclimatise more easily to the base camp altitude and are less likely to be ill. The Jagged Globe itinerary spends 3 nights at Confluencia.

7. Drink lots of water.
Keeping fully hydrated helps you acclimatise, but you'll need to drink more than you would in the Himalaya, for example, as the atmosphere is so dry on Aconcagua. The test for whether you're hydrated - your pee should be 'clear and copious'. Add berocca or similar to make the water taste more palatable.

8. Do some 'active pottering' on rest days.
On an acclimatisation day or 'rest' day, don't just fester in your tent. Do a little bit of 'active pottering' (a phrase I first heard Adele Pennington use) to keep the blood moving around. If you're in base camp, stroll across to the derelict Plaza de Mulas hotel.

9. Plan ahead, but don't be too summit focussed.
During the early part of the expedition, focus on staying healthy and the logistics of getting your gear and food in place on the mountain. Don't waste energy worrying about the summit push or what the weather might be doing a week from now.

10. Get organised.
Work on the basics: stick to timings - don't be the one holding up the group, be ready to go so that by summit day, ruthless efficiency is second nature. Learn how to pitch your tent and create a comfortable sleeping 'nest' early on. Compartmentalise your clothing and gear in stuff sacks and know what you have in base camp and what you've stashed on the mountain. Keep warm and dry - take off damp/sweaty gear on arrival at camp, get changed and dry stuff out.

11. Learn the 'rest step'.
Google it! It's the efficient way to move at high-altitude, especially when carrying a pack. It goes without saying, trekking poles help give you more power from your upper body.

12. Take a blister kit.
Your feet are likely to get very hot low down on the mountain. Treat 'hot spots' before they become full-blown blisters.

13. Eat. A lot.
You need the energy and you need to keep warm. Climbing to 7,000m will be incredibly difficult if you are not putting enough fuel in the engine.

14. Enjoy it.
A mountaineering expedition to Aconcagua is an opportunity to learn new skills and for new experiences. Focus on the positives, even if at some point it's all feeling a bit tough. The sunsets and Condors are incredible!

There are still places on our December 2018 and January 2019 expeditions. The 2019-20 season is filling up, with the November 2019 expedition already fully booked.

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