Trip Reports

Alpine Season 2001 - selected courses roundup

Written by Leader Dave Walsh, November 2001

So what was achieved on Jagged Globe's Alpine Courses in 2001? IFMGA Guide, Dave Walsh gives a brief overview from the courses that he directed
Alpine Introduction - Week 1.
A week of generally fine weather and a new hotel base, Hotel Mont Collon. After a day of crampon and axe practice on the the Ferpecle glacier, the group then visited the Cabane Aiguilles Rouges for their first hut night. An ascent of Pointe Vouasson the next day followed by some teaching of snow techniques and crevasse rescue. During the next 4 days we did one or more of the following peaks: Mont Blanc de Cheilon, Traverse of the Pigne d' Arolla and L' Eveque.

Alpine Introduction Week 2.
As for the first week but with unsettled weather. An exciting glacier day took place in heavy rain and impressive electrical activity. The weather continued poor for the rest of the week. Peaks climbed: Pointe Vouasson and the Pigne d' Arolla.

Swiss 4000's - week 1.
Based at the Hotel Roby in Saas Grund this venue is ideal for experiencing alpine mountaineering without the clutter of the tourist trade. Nine climbers enjoyed a week of good weather and between them climbed: Traverse of the Weismise, Nadelhorn, Ulrichshorn, ENE ridge of the Allalinhorn, Alphubel and Rimpfischhorn.

Swiss 4000's - week 2.
Poor weather towards the end of the week prevented an ascent of the Alphubel. Ascents of the Allalinhorn and Weismise were made before the break in the weather.

Zermatt Giants - week 1.
Peaks climbed; The Dom, Zinal Rothorn, Obergablehorn, Rimpfischhorn, West ridge on Alphubel, Allalinhorn, Adlerhorn -Weismise and the Mittaghorn -Egginer. An impressive list, but course students were feeling it by the end of the week!

Zermatt Giants - week 2.
Good weather at the beginning of the week. Peaks climbed; ENE ridge Allalinhorn, Rimpfischhorn, Breithorn, Castor, Pollux and the west peak of the Lyskamm. The descent from the Lyskamm down the Zmillings glacier and on to Rotenboden gave an insight of a quite long day with a complicated glacier descent. A planned ascent of the Adlerhorn and Stralhorn from the Fluealp was curtailed by the weather.

Mont Blanc - week 4.
A good session on the Mer de Glace by Gerade followed the next day by a night at the Albert 1st. Roping for glacier travel and a crevasse rescue demonstration, followed by dinner and bed. Left the hut at 5am for a traverse of the Aiguille du Tour and return to Chamonix.

Set out for the Tete Rousse with the forecast not very promising for Thursday and Friday. A night was spent in the Tete Rousse, leaving at 8 a.m. for the Gouter hut. Several British guides were descending from the Gouter having been informed by the guardian of imminent bad weather. After some discussion regarding the Likelihood of summiting the next day, we opted to return to Chamonix rather than spend a night at the hut. Gerade with his 2 clients were ahead of the rest and decided to carry on for the summit after a brief rest at the hut. They summited in 3 hours, a fast time, returning to the Gouter around 6pm. A good effort. They did have an exciting descent the following morning. A full Scottish experience!

Mont Blanc - week 5.
A good group, both enthusiastic and socially compatible. The same start as last week except we climbed the Aiguille du Tour in the afternoon, based on another poor forecast for the following day. This turned out to be a very good call as the next day several inches of snow had fallen overnight and no one left the hut. Again a walk down more reminiscent of a February day in Glencoe than the Alps.

Another good call on Mont Blanc, making use of the better weather we left the Tete Rousse at 8 a.m. and continued to the summit, arriving around 4 p.m. The descent in steadily worsening weather saw us back at the Gouter around 6-30 p.m. A delightful night, described as a cross between a Veal Crate and a Slave Ship but without the good food!

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