Trip Reports

Antisana - 30 Oct to 12 Nov '05

Written by Team Member Lynn Robinson, January 2006

The group was met at Quito airport by our guide, Jose Luis and driver, Victor. We spent a fascinating few days visiting the city sights of old Quito, whilst our bodies got used to the altitude of 2,850m. We then set off on our acclimatisation programme. The first stage was climbing Ruco Pinhincha (4,710m) – starting from the top of a newly built telepherique station that towers above Quito at 4,200m. Jose was interviewed and we were filmed puffing and panting our way up the slopes towards the summit as part of a TV programme to promote the telepherique!

It was then off to Cotopaxi National Park to climb Ruminahui (4,634). The next day we climbed slightly higher to undertake glacier training on the slopes of Cotopaxi. This was a chance to practice our ice-axe arrests, which was great fun at an altitude of 4,800m. It was then time to leave our luxurious accommodation and spend a few nights under canvas whilst we climbed Iliniza Norte to reach an altitude over 5,000m for the first time (5,126m). On our short evening stroll (climb high, sleep low principle) we had spectacular views of Cotopaxi and Ruminahui, which ended with an amazing sunset. The mountain itself proved to be a wonderful scramble with fantastic views towards the south summit.

It was then time for a rest day when we visited some wonderful thermal baths and the whole group treated themselves to a full relaxing body massage – true bliss! After a few nights in a great hacienda, and fully rested, it was then back under canvas and a wonderful campsite, which we had, to ourselves.

We were joined by two more guides, Jaime and Felipe, to climb our main objective, Antisana (5,753m). Wow, what a mountain! None of us minded the 12.15am start as we were expertly led up by Felipe who had been on the mountain two weeks before, so had worked out a route to the south col. With a one guide to two team members ratio, we were able to move at a good pace and because of the excellent acclimisation programme, the affects felt weren’t too bad!

Dawn was truly magical with crevasses and ice walls revealing themselves and the shadow of the summit casting itself on the horizon. The last 100m was a labyrinth of ice and cascades of snow. One party set off in one direction up a steep snow slope whilst the rest of us watched Jose lead up a steep snow/ice section (about Scottish grade II/III). After being belayed up there was then only the summit to conquer. All nine of us (three guides and 6 team members) summitted. After the obligitory panoramic photo-taking and glorying at the views of Cayambe and Cotopaxi, it was time to descend to our base camp and well deserved tea and biscuits supplied by our excellent cook.

There was only one thing left to do - party the night away to celebrate our achievements of the past two weeks, which was done in great style by all. This was truly an amazing two-week trip to climb one of the remotest and interesting mountains in Ecuador (we were the only group on the mountain – absolute bliss – a true wilderness experience!!). The organisation was second to none (special thanks to Jagged Globe guide, Javier Herrera), the accommodation was of a very high standard and the food throughout was superb. Thanks to the five guys from the UK who were also on the trip. We made a great team, which I think is evidenced by the fact that we all summited! Our main climbing guide, Jose Luis, seemed to know endless facts about Ecuador and high altitude mountaineering (having summited Everest twice) and was constantly passing on ‘top tips’ of how to deal with the altitude. He was a great leader and a fantastic guide. Victor, our driver, always got us at the right place at the right time and was great fun (and thankfully he didn’t run over any chickens whilst we were with him!!). Felipe and Jaime were great fun and superbly led us up Antisana. My sincere thanks goes to all these guys who turned the trip into an amazing mountaineering holiday. Many thanks to Jagged Globe for a superb mountaineering experience.

Lynn Robinson, Team Member and Summiteer « Previous report | Next report »

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