Saas 4000ers

Overview

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Introduction

The Saas 4000ers course builds on previous snow and ice experience by climbing some of the 4,000m Alpine peaks around the excellent base of Saas Grund, an area that offers a profusion of superb peaks that break through the 4,000m contour. Spending as much time as possible operating from the network of excellent mountain huts, the course is progressive, to allow acclimatisation in the first few days. Then it's full on to climb as many 4,000 metre peaks as possible within the week. The course is guided at a 1:2 ratio, meaning you can tackle routes up to grade PD+.

Saas Grund is a brilliant base for a week of classic alpine mountaineering, as there are options on both sides of the valley and you can use various cable cars to get up high, some of which are just a short walk away from our hotel. If the weather is poor, there are more options than in some other Alpine bases. For example, the South Ridge of the Weissmies can often be tackled even in snowy conditions.

This course is suitable for those with previous Alpine or Scottish Winter mountaineering experience. It is a brilliant follow-on to either our Scottish Introductory Winter Mountaineering course, or our Alpine Introduction course. If you have only completed a Long Weekend in Scotland, we recommend that you join our Alpine Introduction course, before the Saas 4,000ers.

• What next? On completion of this course, you might consider the Zermatt 4,000ers or Oberland 4,000ers courses.

Course base: Saas Grund, Switzerland

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Possible Mountain Routes

Jegihorn (3,206m) - SE face.
Though not 4,000m, the Jegihorn is an ideal way to start our week. It is a quick ride on the Hohass from Saas Grund to 3,100m. From here we approach the Jegihorn, a rocky peak which serves as excellent training and acclimatisation. Following a rope skills session, we climb the SE face, which has been equipped with a 'via ferrata'. This gives a fine outing and from the summit there are superb views across the valley to the big peaks of the Mischabel and Nadelgrat, as well as south towards the Weissmies.

Weissmies (4,017m) - traverse via the SSE and SW ridge.
The ascent is made from the Almageller hut via the South-South East (SSE) ridge. The climb involves sections of up to 45° angled slopes and provides an excellent outing mostly on rock (PD).

Following a drive up the valley to Saas Almagell, there is a pleasant 3-hour walk to the Almageller Hut, initially through delightful forest and then open meadows and moraine. Climbers leave the hut by torchlight to gain the SSE ridge which is followed on rock and snow slopes to a steepening in the ridge where scrambling remains to the summit and fantastic views.

Allalinhorn (4,027m) - normal route (F+) or traverse via Hohlaubgrat (PD+).
We climb either the 'voie normal' (WNW ridge), or the East-North-East-Ridge (Hohlaubgrat), depending on conditions and the competency of course members. The Hohlaubgrat provides the most direct route up the Allalinhorn from the Britannia Hut and involves a glacier approach and long snow ridge, leading to a short rock barrier just below the summit (PD+). This route has become steeper and more difficult in recent years. The normal route via the WNW Ridge (F+) follows a piste track from the Metro station, then traverses easy-angled snow slopes to reach the Feejoch (3,826m). From here, ESE snow slopes are followed (sometimes icy) to the summit.

Lagginhorn (4,010m) - WSW ridge.
A striking mountain with varied mountaineering interest, situated above the Weissmies Hut. The standard route follows the West-South-West Ridge (PD) and is mostly on rock, although the upper section can be a mix of rock and snow, particularly early in the season. The descent follows the route of ascent.

Alphubel (4,206m) - SE ridge.
The most southerly peak of the Mischabel chain is one of the most popular summits that we climb regularly on both the Saas 4,000ers and Zermatt 4,000ers courses. The South-East ridge (PD) can be easily accessed from Saas Fee via the Langflue cablecar or the new Metro railway to Mittel Allalin. This is a snow climb, with a delicate summit ridge, which can be tricky if icy. Alternatively, we may climb the East Flank (PD-).

It takes between 2 and 3 hours to reach the Alphubeljoch (3,773m), depending on whether we start from Langflue or Mittel Allalin. From the pass the route climbs up onto the SE ridge and follows a narrow crest, before the ridge broadens and we reach the Eisnase (ice-nose). Normally, with good snow cover, the route zig zags up a 40 degree slope on this crux section at 4,100m. It's another 100m to the summit from here, which provides glorious views across the Zermatt skyline.

Nadelhorn (4,327m) - NE ridge.
The Nadelhorn forms the centrepiece of the Nadelgrat and its NE ridge provides a varied and interesting climb, mostly on snow, from the Mischabel Hut (PD).

This is a climb of contrasts that packs a lot into the ascent. It starts with a 4-5 hour ascent to the superbly positioned Mischabel Hut up an improbable rock ridge which is equipped with cables, steel rungs and a ladder. The route the next day is relatively short and direct. It climbs the ridge behind the hut for about 250m and then traverses across the Hohbalm Glacier to the Windjoch (3,850m). From the Windjoch, the NE ridge is followed on snow and rock to the tiny summit block, where space is at a premium. Descent is by the ascent route.

Strahlhorn (4,190m) - WNW Flank
The Strahlhorn is one of the easier 4,000m peaks, with panoramic views from its summit. It's frequently climbed by our teams, though the long approach does put some people off! From the comfort of the Britannia Hut the Hohlaub glacier is followed at first to gain the Allalin glacier and a plateau at 3,250m, before a route is found that allows access to the Alderpass (3,789m). A straightforward snow ridge is followed to the summit.

Typical Programme

Day 1:	Saturday. Course participants meet at the course base at 7pm. Briefing on the week's activities in the evening. Overnight hotel.
Day 2:	Sunday. Revision of Alpine ropework followed by an ascent of the Jegihorn (3,206m) by a via ferrata. This gives you some initial altitude to start acclimatising and experience of moving in exposed alpine terrain. Overnight hotel.
Day 3:	Monday. Ascend to the Almageller Hut (2,894m), crevasse rescue refresher.
Day 4:	Tuesday. Climb the Weissmies (4,017m) via the South Ridge. This is mostly scrambling with a few steeper walls to climb over. Overnight hut.
Day 5:	Wednesday. Rock climbing on the Dri Hornli. Afternoon descent to the valley. Overnight hotel.
Day 6:	Thursday. Ascent of the Allalinhorn (4,027m) using the Alpine express funicular. Return to the valley and in the afternoon ascend to the Weissmies hut. Overnight hut.
Day 7:	Friday. Ascent of the Lagginhorn (4,010m). Return to the valley. Overnight hotel.
Day 8:	Saturday. Dispersal. Breakfast will be provided on the last morning before students leave the course.

Further Information

Find out more about our Guides and Ratios, Alpine Grading and Equipment... read more

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the course or your suitability for it, please phone +44 (0)114 276 3322 or contact us.

Dates & Prices

Date	Meeting in		Availability
Sat 20 Jun – Sat 27 Jun 2026	Saas Grund		full Enquire »
Head of Course Caroline Ogden Course Guide/Instructor Jim Kerr Course Guide/Instructor Lucas Velazquez	£2,595
Sat 11 Jul – Sat 18 Jul 2026	Saas Grund		full Enquire »
Head of Course Caroline Ogden	£2,595
Sat 25 Jul – Sat 1 Aug 2026	Saas Grund		Available Book now »
Head of Course Andy Owen	£2,595
Sat 8 Aug – Sat 15 Aug 2026	Saas Grund		Available Book now »
Head of Course Andy Owen Last 2 places	£2,595
Sat 19 Jun – Sat 26 Jun 2027	Saas Grund		Available Book now »
	£2,695
Sat 10 Jul – Sat 17 Jul 2027	Saas Grund		Available Book now »
	£2,695
Sat 24 Jul – Sat 31 Jul 2027	Saas Grund		Available Book now »
	£2,695
Sat 7 Aug – Sat 14 Aug 2027	Saas Grund		Available Book now »
	£2,695
Sat 4 Sep – Sat 11 Sep 2027	Saas Grund		Available Book now »
	£2,695

This course is available to book in GBP, USD and EUR.
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Group size: 2 – 6 people.

Single room supplement: £180

For comparison, this course starts from £371 (GBP) per day (price Without Flights).

What the price includes

• 4 nights' hotel accommodation in Saas Grund on a twin-sharing, half-board basis
• 3 nights' mountain hut accommodation in a shared dormitory bunk, half-board basis
• 6 days' guiding with a qualified IFMGA Mountain Guide. Ratio 1:2 maximum
• Transport (by public means, private hire vehicle, minibus or guides' cars) to fulfil the course programme
• Group mountaineering equipment such as ropes and other technical equipment
• Ice axes, crampons, harnesses & helmets, when booked in advance

What the price does not include

• Travel to/from Saas Grund
• Lunch
• Cable cars, mountain railways and mechanical uplift (estimated cost £20 with Swiss Card and SaasPass)
• Personal climbing equipment and clothing (including boots, which can be hired locally)
• Mountaineering and travel Insurance

Please note that the costs for mechanical up-lift are not included in the overall course cost because these can vary, depending on the weather and routes selected. This means that we are not restricted by a budget. Also, if we spend less on up-lift than expected, you make the saving rather than us.

Photos & Videos

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• Weissmies Summit, Swiss Alps
• Weissmies

Reviews

Have you been on this trip? If you'd like to contribute a trip report then we'll post it up on the site.

Team Member Reviews

• ‘

  I may as well say by email that I had a truly fantastic time. The guides were absolutely brilliant, and the group was a lot of fun too. Pension Heino was great, good rooms, nice food, warm welcome, and the climbing was perfect: well within my capabilities, but in such a stunning setting it took my breath away more than the altitude did! A perfect first trip to the high mountains for a “competent novice” like me.  

  ’ Saas 4000ers, July 2024
• ‘Caro was an excellent guide, thoroughly professional, encouraging and great company for the week.’ NA, Saas 4000ers 2013
• ‘Attitude of the guides – good and collaborative approach and easy to learn from.’ MS, 2002

Leader Reports

• Saas 4000ers - 20 to 27 Jul 2019
  “The weather was fine for the whole week. Very high temperatures, even high up, allowed us to climb all three 4000 m peaks just in shirts. Beside these alpine climbs we also did some sport climbing and the regular warmup and...”
  report added 30/Jul/19

Travel & Venue

Fly to Geneva or Zurich. For Saas Grund, you can travel from the airport using the efficient Swiss Rail and coach network (travel time from Zurich is 3 hours, Geneva is 3.5 hours). Plan you journey at www.sbb.ch.

Valley accommodation is in Hotel Pension Heino. The accommodation is provided on a twin-share, half-board basis. A single room supplement is payable should you want to have a room to yourself.