Trip Reports

Xtreme Everest Base Camp Trek 20 March - 11 April '13

Written by Leader George Manley, April 2013

The team, with the exception of Gaizka, met at London Heathrow for our overnight flight to Kathmandu to start our great adventure to experience one of the world’s greatest journeys. The flight to Kathmandu via Delhi was running smoothly until the approach to Kathmandu airport. Kathmandu was experiencing some unprecedented severe weather conditions, huge lightning storms the like Kathmandu had not seen for years. We were one of many flights diverted to Lucknow to refuel for a second futile attempt at Kathmandu before returning to Lucknow again. Here, we refueled again and returned for a night on Delhi airport. Despite these delays and arriving at Kathmandu a day late, this second day of travelling was hassle-free.

Upon arrival the very friendly Summit trekking staff met us at the airport and transferred us to the peace and quiet of the Summit hotel where we met our seventh team member, Gaizka. We were then treated and privileged to a formal Buddhist Puja blessing for a safe and successful expedition, given garlands, drinks and the lighting of a sacred flame. We were then given a briefing by Shiv from Summit Trekking and the XE2 medics gave us an introductory information session advising on the daily diaries, our individual test times etc.

The Xtreme Everest 2 expedition is the second and largest high altitude research project looking into the effects of hypoxia in the body; which will hopefully develop new therapies to improve the survival rates of intensive care patients. Each trekker would be monitored for their physical condition and acclimatisation, filling a daily diary recording pulse & breathing rates, blood pressure, oxygen saturation levels in the blood. More detailed scientific testing was done at medical labs at Namche, EBC and Kathmandu. These tests were blood samples, muscle biopsies, the grueling ‘CPX bike test’, the amazing laser doppler test and many more.

After this first night, and a mixture of kit checks and frantic repacking because of the change in weight allowance for the Lukla flight, an early 5am start saw us at Kathmandu airport for our 11.30am twin otter Lukla flight. A quite unbelievable and spectacular flight with a hair raising landing saw us at Lukla where we met our Sirdar, Lakpa and our Sherpa team Nima, Dorgie and Nwang who collected our baggage and fed us the first of what would be oodles of tea during the trek. Unfortunately we had a further wait for the next flight to arrive because of our excess baggage, not surprising as the weight requirements were reduced the day we arrived. As a result we didn’t get started until lunch time, this ended up a long day with the group arriving at the Summit Home Lodge in Monjo (2835m) at 7.30pm, all in all a harsh introduction to this trip. The nickname “Team Epic “was born among the XE2 medics.

Next morning in beautiful weather and after a much needed night’s sleep, we headed for Namche Bazaar (3440m) entering the Sagamartha National Park, crossing several suspension bridges over the Dudh Kosi ever towards the infamous “Namche Hill”. Described as hard and steep, which it was, but also great fun with so much to see, dodging Yaks trains and porters with their enormous loads and cursing those going down, informing us that we were “nearly there”. But the jewel in the crown was our first sight of Everest, a mesmerizing sight which was very hard to turn away from.

Arrival in Namche, “the gateway to the Everest region” was a great relief and had a wow factor. The prospect of two days rest & acclimatisation, serious retail therapy, drinking coffee and eating apple pie & chocolate cake was applauded by everyone; this enabled everyone to rest and settle down. We were welcomed with cheers and hugs by the XE2 medical team as we arrived at Shervi Khangha Lodge, just in time for a late lunch. Two days rest, stiff medical testing and the delights of 8848 & club Namche were a very welcome treat.

After two days we were on our way to Deboche (3710m) and the Rivendell lodge, a beautiful trek via the amazing Tyangboche monastery (3860m) with all its vibrant colour, intricate painted walls and ceilings. The prize after trekking up a long & steep “Tyangboche hill” was a cake shop, a very enjoyable day where Everest and Ama Dablam were a constant wonderment and inspiring sight.

The following day to Pheriche (4270m) and the Himalayan hotel was via a bleaker but a more dramatic trail. We passed out of the pinewoods & Rhododendron forests into a storm swept tableland of barren mountain landscapes, traversing into high terrain with spectacular peaks and wide glaciated valleys. At Pheriche we again paused for two days, the team took the well-earned opportunity for rest and recovery. Acclimatisation was now a priority, some of us had started to feel the effects of high altitude, but with a painkiller and accompanied with walks up the Pheriche ridge to gain views of Island peak, Makalu, Cho Oyo and to “Mammas” the cake shop at Dingboche, this all helped in the acclimatisation process.

The trek to Lobuche(4910m) was a long day, given to illnesses that one or two of the team had, anti-biotics were a blessing in this department, however it was touch and go whether one team member had to descend or not. Fortunately with a miraculous recovery at lunch time and an extraordinary show of determination and tenacity, this prevented a descent and made sure this incredible team member reached EBC. From Lobuche we trekked for two days via Gorak Shep (5140m) for the final push to the 'Top of the World'; Everest Base Camp. We struggled with headaches, puffy faces, smelly toilets, but on the journey we would be stopped in our tracks in absolute awe and amazement of the extraordinary magical atmosphere we found ourselves encircled by, quite simply the most dramatic mountain scenery in the world. Once passed a unstable lateral moraine, where you don’t stop or look up; across ice-cored moraine slopes which is slow and hard going, a steadfast and determined team, tired and elated finally reached the finish line, Everest Base Camp (5364m) to hugs and cheers from the XE2 medical team, and extra hugs from us to one team member who struggled, but showed unbelievable fortitude and courage to reach EBC.

Everest Base Camp was astonishingly extensive, the size of a small town, and the weather was excellent, hot during the day but a chilly -16 at night, with magnificent views of the famous Kumbu Icefall, Pumo Ri (7165m) Lingtren(6749m) Khumbutse(6665m) Nuptse (7861m) and the West Ridge. Here the final bout of tests, extremely demanding at altitude which nearly everyone completed, a testament to everyone’s commitment to the medical research. Two days later, the testing over and many congratulations from the medics for everyone’s participation. After a scrummy cake and gifts, we prepared for the long and tiring trek down to Dingboche. The next morning, five team members rose early and made a heroic attempt to climb Kala Pattar in their descent to Dingboche, unfortunately the constraints of time meant they reached around 5450m, a remarkable effort. The reminder of the team made their way down the moraine to meet the others at Gorak Shep, to continue to Lobuche, over the Thokla pass (4830m) passed the memorials then over the ridge to Dingboche, a mere 18/20kms !

Having decided at EBC to trek back to Lukla in three days instead of four to get back our lost day, the next three days of descent were tough going where we found ourselves arriving later than expected at Dingboche. Just as the light was fading, we all witnessed a small miracle. Out of the thick mist that encircled us, like a mirage, Dorgie our Sherpa appeared armed with sweet Sherpa tea to lift our spirits, an amazing testament to how conscientious, admirable, hard- working and amazing the Sherpa people are. Gaizka was immensely impressed by this deed and amused at the thought of how British this situation was “everything stops for tea in the late afternoon”. Two more days of trekking would see us back at Lukla. During the trek to Namche we were amazed how the crops and flowers had progressed, the return to lower altitudes brought warmth and talk turned to “burgers” at Yakdonalds in Lukla. Sadly, one team member was struggling and we arrived in Namche later than expected. As a result, Kay a XE2 doctor came to see everyone, after this a horse was hired for tired legs for the last day’s trekking.

The final day of trekking was equally tough, long and warm, downhill, but with a final hill up to Lukla which seemed never ending, a sting in the tail which certainly let you know you have earned the privilege to be trespassers on the roof of the world; to witness a hidden Himalayan Shangri-La, to see Chomolungna or Sagarmatha. Once we reached Lukla, there were many cheers and hugs all around with the realisation that Team Epic: Endure, Emotional, Everyone, Extraordinary, Effort, Endeavor, Enjoy, Eagerness, Excel, Exceptional, Extreme had made it and achieved what we had set out to do.

Showers and good food at the Paradise Lodge were very welcome. It was a bittersweet evening as we expressed our thanks and gave well deserved tips celebratory drinks to our truly wonderful Sherpa team and we realised we had to say farewell and 'Namaste' to Lakpa, Dorgie, Nwang, super Nima and our Yak Sherpa. We were lucky to fly on time the next morning from Lukla, reaching the peaceful oasis of the Summit Hotel within the chaos and noise of Kathmandu. We had clawed back our lost day, we were all very pleased and very grateful to Dan Martin in allowing us this luxury. After the final testing, visits to Durbar square, Thamel and lying around the pool, drinking well-earned beers, brought our amazing expedition to an end.

This trek achieved all its aims and hopefully has given a treasure of scientific information and many lasting memories; we were hugely impressed with the stunning beauty of the Himalaya, the warmth of the Sherpa people and the fun sharing our experience with our team mates and five fantastic Sherpas.

This team more than any other that I have had the privilege to guide, showed genuine determination, unbelievable team spirit & support, commitment and perseverance, all this was invaluable to ensure that everyone made it all the way to EBC and back. A massive well done. Many thanks must go to all the Jagged Globe office staff, to the Summit trekking staff, to all the dedicated XE2 medical staff for all their advice and help, to our magnificent Sherpa’s, but most of all to the team members, Rebecca A, Julia, Rebecca H, Jane, Gaizka, Graham and Elizabeth.

Da iawn pawb ! Well done all !

George Manley, Expedition Leader Xtreme Everest 2, Base Camp Trek March/April 2013 « | »

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