Trip Reports

Aconcagua - 22 Dec to 15 Jan '06

Written by Leader Greg Coe, January 2006

Despite fierce winds, eight determined team members reached the summit of Aconcagua on Monday 9 January at 2:00pm, in the company of three local guides and expedition leader, Greg Coe. The trip began in a festive spirit, as the twelve members arrived in Mendoza on December 23. Equipment was organised and permits acquired the following day, and that evening we enjoyed a big Christmas eve dinner, during which some members of the team seemed to consume alarming quantities of champagne!

The three-day approach provided time for recovery and acclimatisation, and the headaches had mostly abated by the time we arrived at Plaza de Mulas. After a rest day there, we headed up Bonete Peak: indeed a splendid day out, though Dr Patel and Ben were struggling with acclimatisation and conditions, and elected to return to Mendoza.

The remainder of the group made their first foray onto the mountain the following day, and after a night at Camp 1, ferried light loads to Camp 2 before returnning to Base Camp. Sadly we lost another two team members here, as Nigel developed a chest infection and Michael struggled with the overall rigours of being on the mountain. Our rest day was enlivened however, when we assembled to watch their departure on mules, amidst much ribald humour and unhelpful suggestions. We later heard they’d arrived sore but safe at Los Penitentes.

The remainder of the team departed for Camp 1, under the forbidding lenticular clouds indicative of high winds on the summit. We climbed slowly for four days, hoping for an improvement. Once established at Camp 3, it seemed initially as if our wishes had been granted, but that night the wind accelerated again, destroying two tents and prompting hasty repairs and a redistribution of tent-mates.

The wind continued unabated all that day, and it seemed we would be delayed a further 24 hours, but we awoke on Monday to a starry sky and a significant lessening of the wind. After a hasty breakfast we departed, making good time up the zig-zag trail to Independencia. We paused there while our exceptionally committed head guide Kike and assistant Martin went to scout the conditions on the crux of the route - El Puerto del Viento. They returned, concerned but positive, and we gathered ourselves and moved together up to the col, and into the worst of the wind. Despite several knock-downs, we reached the shelter of La Piedra del Refugia, and the worst was behind us.

A further two hours along the treadmill traverse brought us to the foot of the Canaleta, where we ditched all surplus kit and went lightweight for the top. High altitude whippets Daniel annd Jill reached the summit first, closely followed by altitude veteran Stuart. Our quietly committed Dr Campbell and card-shark Tom came next, then a tearful Rachel, amazing herself with her grit and determination. Finally, with local guide Nils, came the big fellas: Norwegian student Olve Rasmusen (impressively, on his first attempt at altitude [His father Tore climbed Everest with Jagged Globe in spring 2005 - Ed]) and Adrian, whose huge camera captured the moment on the summit. With hugs exchanged, we started down. Again the Windy Gap tested balance and resolve, and after an exhausting twelve hours, we returned to the relative comfort of Berlin Camp. The wind accounted for a further two tents that night, and it was with some relief, and considerable elation, that we broke camp next day and returned to our friends at Base Camp, who’d prepared a celebratory meal of endless pizzas and beer.

Full credit to everyone’s determination, Kike’s care and professionalism, and Daniel Alessio for his exemplary logistical support.

Great effort team!

Greg Coe, expedition leader. Mendoza 13 January 2006 « Previous report | Next report »

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