Trip Reports

Ecuador Volcanoes 16 to 31 October '15

Antisana summit, October 2015
Trip Report

Written by Leader Adele Pennington, November 2015

It was relatively easy to identify the Jagged Globe Ecuador Volcanoes team at Schiphol airport. Rob a familiar face from the Scottish winter courses, Henry, James, Veronica and Jim wearing trekking boots and bearing rucksacks as hand luggage and Dan who we met on board, grinning at his extra leg room. Shane the final member of the group would be meeting us in Quito after travelling from Toronto. Javier was waiting for us as we dragged our big red bags through customs. After an hourís drive from the outskirts of Quito we were welcomed at the Reima Isabell hotel where we enjoyed dinner and were pleased to sleep off the jet leg in our luxury four star rooms.

Starting our acclimatisation; Javier led us on a walking city tour. Visiting the Guapano church, El Panecillo, San Francisco Square and the Bacilica where we climbed the steep steps to the top of the tower to get magnificent views of the city and surrounding mountains. Once back at the hotel Javier entertained us with pictures and stories of our forthcoming climbs before we dined out at a local restaurant. In the morning Marco was there to greet us and we set off to Pasochoa (4,200 metres) an extinct volcano located in the Guayllabamba region just an hourís drive from the centre of Quito. Driving up to 3600m it felt good to start walking and after 2hrs 40 min we were celebrating our first summit despite feeling the altitude.

Our next challenge was Rucu Pichincha (4700m); taking the telepherique to gain altitude quickly we enjoyed the scrambling terrain that this mountain has to offer.

Again 100% summit success bonded the team and this mountain prepared us superbly for Illiniza Norte (5126m). Leaving Quito we spent the night at a beautiful Ecuadorian Lodge before hiking up to Virgin Camp below Illiniza. Leaving at 5am the views of Cotopaxi smoking in the back ground were truly amazing but were soon forgotten as we concentrated on the airy scrambling which took us to the summit.

After a 12 hour day we were pleased to be back at camp for some rest and excellent food before travelling to the beautiful 16th Centenary Hacienda Guachala below Cayambe. Not wanting to miss our retail therapy at Otovala Market we renewed our energy with the largest Pizza we had ever seen and wandered around the colourful square. Dan and Rob seemed to be the shoppers of the trip but we all enjoyed a beer on a terrace overlooking the town. Bright and early we set off to the Cayambe refuge, taking a short stop at the Equator. It was here that poor Rob decided to be a little sick! returned to the Hacienda with Marco whilst the rest of us wandered up to the hut. A short walk up to 5000m aided our acclimatisation but the thin air was taking its toll and sleep became a priority. In the morning it was important for us to practice some cramponing and ropework skills before setting off on Cayambe. Pleased to be reunited with Rob who had made a speedy recovery we unfortunately had to wave Veronica goodbye who was not feeling too well.

Jim and Henry (father and son) set off first at 11pm. Low cloud, wind and slight flurries of snow made it hard going and the rest of us caught them up at 5300m. With at least another three and a half hours to go Jim decided to descend and let his son move on more quickly with the rest of the team. The weather did not improve as we wound our way through the crevasses and topped out at 7.30am in the white room. Eventually the sun pushed through and warmed us up for the descent.

Back at the refuge for 9.30am we decided to return to Guachala where we could revitalise our weary bodies and catch up with Veronica. After a relaxing night we headed off towards Antisansa dropping Veronica off to recuperate in the thermal baths in Papallacta. Arriving at Hacienda Guaytara we were not disappointed and enjoyed a great evening watching humming birds, the full moon rise and listening to classic rock. Walking up to Antisana base camp there was a certain apprehension and quietness within the group as the effort of the previous days started to show. Once at base camp we practiced crevasse rescue before dinner and retired early to bed before an 11pm wake up call.

Good weather at 11pm meant all stations go. Guides; Marco, Freddie, Mauricio and myself took the lead and we made our way slowly to the glacier. Roping up we plodded steadily on this moon lit night, placing little red flags to mark the route. As the dawn rose we saw the upper reaches of the mountain and made a new route through the mini ice fall as the snow bridge that usually gave access had now collapsed. Placing running belays Freddie, Marco and myself worked together and eventually we topped out at 9am; exhausted but elated.

Descending back through the ice fall was equally as exciting and as the cloud lifted we had amazing views of Antisanaís other tops.

As we descended further we could see those team members who had descended earlier making their way up to meet us with water and food. Emotionally we flopped down on the edge of the Glacier as Jim, Henry and Rob supplied us with goodies and fluids to energise us to get back to base camp. What a team spirit! Delighted to be back at camp we slept for the afternoon before the malt whisky (thanks Jim) was opened and we excitedly chatted about the expedition. Back in Quito, Veronica was there to meet us and the whole team enjoyed a brilliant night out. The following morning Dan and Shane headed off to Chimborozo whilst the rest of us boarded the KLM flight home. This was a superb expedition which was made by the camaraderie of the team. Well done everyone and thank you to Javier and all the Ecuadorian staff.

Adele Pennington « | Next report »

Jagged Globe Newsletter

We publish an email newsletter with trip reports and latest availability, plus features, competitions and general news of our climbing, trekking & skiing activities.

Categories
Archives
 
Follow Us:
1