Trip Reports

Aconcagua - 17 Dec to 10 Jan '07

Written by Leader, January 2007

This expedition didn't get off to the best of starts. Flying at Christmas time with as group was never going to be easy, especially with 20 bags of expedition gear. However as I found myself running in the wrong direction through all of the security barriers at Madrid airport, I wondered just how badly things could go? Luckily we just made the flight! However, our internal flight to Mendoza was also delayed, and whilst I was trying to sort out a boarding pass problem the flight took off without me. I returned to the departure lounge to find empty seats and no team members - everyone made the flight except the leader. Not a great start!

Sat waiting for my flight I smiled knowing that i must have used up all of our poor luck. Fingers crossed the mountain would be simple, drink (lots) sleep (lots) and eat (lots), and the ascent should be the usual huffing, puffing and grumbling.

Mendoza was just as I remembered it, relaxed, warm, welcoming and offering a fantastic range of food, wine and ice cream. A fine meal out and red wine saw the entire expedition group together for the first time. (one team member, Tom, had had a chaotic flight himself on the way from Columbia). The next day was also busy as we arranged park permits and some of the team made last minute gear purchases.

The transfer to the mountain went smoothly and the whole group walked into Confluencia Camp without incident. The first night camping went well and the next day was spent walking up to Plaza Frances for some thin air and fantastic views of the South Face. A hot and tired group returned for some good food and lots of water.

The following day took us up to the Plaza Mules Base Camp. From my previous trip, I remembered this as being a long hot walk through an arid desert like landscape. The day itself saw a cool headwind all the way with afternoon cloud. After ten hours the last of us trailed into camp, very cold at the end of the day and wanting hot food and beds. That first night was a baptism of fire for the first-timers with high winds rolling down off the mountain and cold temperatures. It was a bit of a shock after the delights of Mendoza and at breakfast the next morning we had some amusing comments, not to mention questions along the lines of "is it always this cold/windy/miserable".

On our rest days there was lots of wind low down and cloud making base camp not the usual blend of cultures, music and fun. Visits to the doctor also resulted in much discussion about altitude/ acclimatisation and quack medicine. Luckily we had a doctor on our team, but as his blood pressure was just as high as everybody else’s his best advice was "ignore the doctors they rarely know what they’re talking about".

Christmas day saw all but two of the group make an ascent of nearby Bonetti Peak; a truly splendid day was had. It was clear, dry and sunny and gave us great views of the route to come, as well as nearby mountains and into Chile. It also saw the entire group enjoy their first shower at the hotel - 7 minutes of pure luxury.

This period saw the first of a spell of good sunny weather lasting us right through to summit day. The mountain also was much quieter after the Christmas day period, with most camps almost empty, save a few tents. Our first forays to Canada and Nido camps saw all of the going well and enjoying great food on the hill. It was during this time that we met the other Jagged Globe group at base camp, after putting a big group on the summit. They deserved it after sitting out atrocious weather at Nido, as Nick commented "the mountain will take your mind". Nick knew what he was talking about, as this was his third visit to the mountain.

Finally it was time for us to make our summit attempt. Good settled weather and good group fitness saw everyone sitting in the ‘Spacestation’ tent at Nido, looking forward to the top. The weather was still set fair for 4 days, so after a rest at Nido we all pushed up to Berlin.

A short 3 hours of yet more scree and Berlin appeared. Food was eaten, water bottles filled, and after yet another fantastic sunset, a full moon sat in the night sky waiting for our day. I awoke at 1 am and just lay listening for wind (our enemy), at 4 am we agreed to go. An incredible moonscape and sunrise illuminated the mountain as everyone set off. Unluckily, some of the group were feeling poor after a bad night not sleeping and water bottles were frozen so early on three of the group elected to turn back.

A long section of uphill saw Indepencia Hut, then began the Grand Accero (great scree). This was harder than expected and sadly three of the group turned around at the base of the Canalette.

Just after 2pm, guide Lucas, Paul , Nick and Mark reached the summit with myself. The view is quite stupendous - especially looking down the South Face to Plaza Frances. For me summits are only as good as the folk you share them with and I was disappointed that more of the group were not there to share it.

A long descent saw the weather break and we ended up back at the tents for 6pm in snow and sleet, more Scottish in nature than Argentinean.

The next day in cold winds and sun, a tired but happy group descended all the way to base camp. Talk was of showers, food and to not having to toilet into a bin bag with a wind blowing around your ankles - such simple pleasures!

24 hours later we all sat in Mendoza after a long days walk and the most perfect steak and wine known to man or woman. It was already fading into memory, were we really there, doing that? One of the main benefits of altitude and human nature is the ability to forget the bad and see the good.

The journey home went like clockwork, even the flights, and the restaurants in Mendoza superb, the hotel in Buenos Aires is excellent and was a great place to finish the expedition.

I must thank everyone who took part so whole-heartedly and all the staff at Base Camp and Lucas and Kike the best guides on the hill.

Aconcagua is a high (7,000m minus 20 minutes of legwork), cold and windy place. Kilimanjaro plus a bit more height it is not! On first viewing it appears to be just a huge pile of scree, but look closer and spend some time and you notice a whole lot more. Come prepared physically as the days are long. Come with a bit of storm fat on the belly as you will loose weight. Come mentally prepared and you stand as good a chance as anyone else.

Sam Benson, Expedition Leader« Previous report | Next report »

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