Zermatt Climber

Zermatt Climber Photo: © Tom Briggs

Join us in Switzerland for six days climbing above Zermatt. The Zermatt Climber course is organised at a guiding ratio of 1:2 for the duration of the course. This provides the opportunity to climb some of the more technically interesting ridge routes at grade AD for which Zermatt is world-famous. Highlights of the course might be the Zinal Rothorn (4,221m) or a traverse of the Nadelgrat.

The week begins with the guides assessing your technical skills and fitness, before tackling a mix of technical climbs and 4,000m peaks. A range of possible routes are listed below. Typically, we will spend three nights in mountain huts and will have one shorter rock climbing day half way through the week.

The course is designed to be flexible and objectives will be chosen based on the mountain conditions, the technical proficiency, fitness and aspirations of the course members.

This course is therefore an ideal progression for those who have climbed in the Alps before and wish to build on their past experience, with ascents of some stunning and highly sought-after Alpine peaks. We highly recommend that you prepare for Zermatt Climber with some rock climbing in the UK. Our Classic Rock course in Snowdonia would be ideal.

Course base: Zermatt Switzerland

Possible Mountain Routes

Breithorn (4,164m) - A Half Traverse via the East Ridge (AD-)
This excellent outing crosses the Central and Western Summits via the rocky East Ridge in fine situations. From the Klein Matterhorn station, we follow the standard route to the Breithornpasse (3,824m) before descending across the Gde Verra Glacier beneath the SSW Spur of the Cental Summit. Snow slopes lead to the col at 4,022m, for where we climb the stepped East Ridge to the Central Summit, continuing along the ridge to the West Summit.

Riffelhorn - Rock Climbing on the South Face
The Riffelhorn has traditionally been a training peak for the Matterhorn. The West Ridge is a popular climb with Zermatt Guides, but arguably the best routes are on the South Face. Egg is a 6 pitch route that can be climbed in big boots at grade AD - (UK equivalent to VS). Not only is the rock excellent, but the overall situation is simply outstanding. The Riffelhorn is positioned high above the Gorner Glacier, with awesome views of the north faces of the Breithorn, Castor and Pollux, Liskamm, as well as the Matterhorn and Monta Rosa.

Rimpfischhorn (4,199m) - by the West South West Ridge (PD+)
The easily identifiable profile of the Rimpfischhorn reflects the the German translation, meaning "stickleback". This is one of the big peaks of the Mischabel Chain, and serves as an excellent warm-up for the Zinalrothorn or Dent Blanche. Even the standard route via the WSW Ridge is a long day and should not be underestimated. The route starts from the Fluh Alp Hotel, which has good food and comfortable beds and is steeped in alpine history - just read the old hut books. A very early start along a faint path and through a boulder field leads to open snow slopes with distant views of the summit. Once the summit pyramid is gained, this gives some interesting scrambling and a final airy traverse to reach the summit rocks. The descent is by the same route, when the benefit of the early start becomes apparent.

Zinal Rothorn (4,221m) - by the South East Ridge (AD-)
One of the finest mountains in the Valais, the Zinal Rothorn should be on the 'tick list' of any aspiring alpine climber. The South East Ridge offers superb rock climbing in its upper section on solid gneiss. From the Rothorn Hut (3,198m), we go up the Rothorn Glacier and climb scree and gullies to access an easy snow ridge. This leads to the rocky terraces, which cross the south face to the Gabel Notch on the SW Ridge. From here superb rock climbing, includnig the crux 'Biner Slab' leads to the summit. We descend by the same route.

Traverse of the Nadelgrat over Hohbarghorn (4,219m) and Nadelhorn (4,327m) (AD)
The Hohbarghorn is the central summit on the traverse of the Northern Nadelgrat. The NE Face can be climbed from the Bordier Hut (2,886m) or more normally, from the Mischabel Hut (3,335m), which is accessed via a short drive round to Saas. It is an attractive climb when the snow conditions are good. From the summit of the Hohbarghorn, we can traverse the NW Ridge of the Nadelhorn, mostly on snow, with some mixed sections, to reach the summit of the Nadelhorn, descending via the NE Ridge.

Dent Blanche (4,357m) - by the South Ridge (AD)
A much sought after rock ridge on one of the most beautiful peaks in the Alps. The South Ridge from the Dent Blanche Hut (3,507m) involves 870m of ascent on rock and typically takes between 7-9 hours. It is only a realistic option at a ratio of 1:2 for very fit and competent alpinists. You need to be comfortable climbing rock of British VS in big boots and should preferably have already spent a week in the Alps, prior to the Zermatt Climber course. It is a 3-day tour from Val d'Herens.

Alphubel (4,206m) - by the WSW Ridge (Rotgrat) (AD)
This is an excellent, long climb on a popular peak overlooking the Zermatt Valley. It is a great introduction to some of the longer and more serious AD ridges. The 2 1/2 Km WSW Ridge is approached from the Tasch Hut (2,701m) and follows interesting terrain up a snowy ridge and on to rock for about 300m leading up to the summit. The descent down the standard route is on easy snow.

Trifthorn (3,728m) by the South Ridge (AD)
An enjoyable climb in a fine situation. Starting from the Rothorn Hut (3,198m), we cross the Trift Glacier to gain the Triftjoch. A couloir leads to a col on the ridge, which is then followed directly, with one tricky step bypassed on the eastern side of the ridge by a chimney.

Adlerhorn - Strahlhorn (4,190m) Traverse (AD-)
As elegant ridgeline that can be delicate if icy. The best line of ascent from Zermatt is via the long approach from Berghaus Flue. It's a worthwhile objective for those looking for a quieter mountain experience.

Traverse of Pointe de Zinal (3,789m) (AD)
A classic outing on good rock opposite the North Face of the Matterhorn. Easily accessed from the Schonbielhutte (2,694m).

Typical Programme

Further Information

Dates

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Sat 4 Jul - Sat 11 Jul '09 Sat 1 Aug - Sat 8 Aug '09 Sat 29 Aug - Sat 5 Sep '09

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