Zermatt 4000ers

Sir Ralnuph Fiennes climbing the Breithorn Photo: © Martin Hartley

A week of progressive mountaineering around Zermatt. The aim of the week is to climb to the highest point in Switzerland -the Dufourspitze (4,634m) on Monta Rosa. Monta Rosa has a number of summits over 4,000m, with the Dufourspitze being the highest. It is easily accessed via snow, with the last 200m being a fine rock scramble, in a memorable position. During the week, we also climb the Breithorn (4,164m) and Pollux (4,092m), which provide excellent preparation.

The course is suitable for those with previous alpine climbing experience, in particular, those who have completed the Saas 4000ers course. Monta Rosa is a tough outing and this is a more physical course than the Saas 4,000ers. The first half of the week is guided at a ratio of 1:3, with the ascent of Monta Rosa being guided at 1:2.

• Combine this course with the 4000ers Mont Blanc Extension... [read more]

Course base: Zermatt, Switzerland

Possible Mountain Routes

Breithorn (4,164m) - the easiest 4,000m peak in the Alps
The Breithorn offers some excellent climbing at a reasonable standard; ease of access via the Klein Matterhorn lift and a straightforward descent ensures its popularity. The South-South-West Flank is the ordinary route (F), which can be easily climbed as part of a satisfying traverse of the mountain. The route is on snow, with a stunning summit ridge.

Castor (4,228m) and Pollux (4,092m) - by the WNW Flank and SW Ridge
We climb Castor via its West-North-West-Flank (PD+), up a long, snowy slope to the summit ridge, or via the NW Ridge (PD+) if there has been recent snow fall. After the climb of Castor, a very fit team could climb Pollox by SW Ridge (PD+).

Castor is best climbed from the Val d'Ayas Hut (3,394m), as the Zwillings Glacier is now badly crevassed, so the approach from the Monta Rosa Hut is rated AD. The start of the West Flank of the mountain is reached from the hut in 1 to 1/12 hours, where a series of zig zags at around 35° arrive at the summit ridge via a small bergshrund. A delightful snow crest then leads to the summit. Descent is normally by the same route. If time and fitness allow, an ascent of Pollux can also be made. The SW Ridge is mostly a rock scramble, which has some fixed rope in place on the steeper section. Beyond the rock a short snow arête leads to the summit.

Riffelhorn - Rock Climbing training on the East Ridge
The Riffelhorn has traditionally been a training peak for the Matterhorn. Not only is the rock excellent, but the overall situation is simply outstanding. The peak is positioned high above the Gorner Glacier, with awesome views of the north faces of the Breithorn, Castor and Pollux, Liskamm, as well as the Matterhorn and Monta Rosa. We climb the East Ridge, which is a series of steps and flat sections, leading to the summit. There are plenty of opportunities to practice ropework in preparation for our Monta Rosa ascent.

Alphubel (4,206m) - by the SE Ridge (PD)
The most southerly peak of the Mischabel chain is one of the most popular summits that we climb regularly on both the Saas 4,000ers and Zermatt 4,000ers courses. The South-East Ridge (PD) can be climbed from Zermatt from the Tasch Hut (2,701m). This is a snow climb, with a delicate summit ridge, which can be tricky if icy. Alternatively, we may climb the East Flank (PD-).

It takes between 2 3/4 and 3 1/4 hours to reach the Alphubeljoch (3,773m) from the Tasch Hut. From the pass the route climbs up onto the SE ridge and follows a narrow crest, before the ridge broadens and we reach the Eisnase (ice-nose). Normally, with good snow cover, the route zig zags up a 40 degree slope on this crux section at 4,100m. It's another 100m to the summit from here, which provides glorious views across the Zermatt skyline.

Dufourspitze on Monte Rosa (4,634m) - The highest peak in Switzerland by the W Ridge (PD+)
The Dufourspitze is the pinnacle of the Monta Rosa group, the highest massif in Europe. It is a long route, following a long glacier and snow slopes to the crest of the West Ridge (PD+), which leads, in a fantastic position, to the second highest point in the Alps and the highest peak in Switzerland.

This 3-day tour begins with a train ride on the Gornergrat Railway to the Rotenboden Station at 2,815m, followed by a 2 1/2 hour walk to the Monte Rosa Hut (2,795m). The summit is a big day, which normally takes between 10 to 12 hours hut-to-hut. We need to make an early start, and hope for good snow conditions on the glacier. The glacier terminates in a short steep snow face that leads to the superb summit rock ridge of solid gneiss. Although not technically difficult, there are enough crevasses to concentrate the mind on the ascent. We descend back to the hut, before returning to Zermatt the following day.

The Dom (4,545m) - the highest peak entirely in Switzerland by the N Flank (PD-)
A mountain for determined alpinists and a fine alternative to the Dufourspitze, which can also be climbed in a 3-day tour from Zermatt. There is no mechanical uplift available on this peak and this is why the Dom tops the list of effort required of all the alpine 4,000er's. The hut walk is normally 5 to 6 hours and summit day involves 1,600m of ascent. Although this is not a technically demanding route, it is remote and arguably has unsurpassed summit views. A superb outing.

Typical Programme

4000ers Mont Blanc Extension

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