Saas 4000ers

Weissmies, Saas 4,000ers Photo: © Thierry Levenq

The Saas 4000'ers course builds on previous Alpine experience by climbing some of the 4,000m Alpine peaks around the excellent base of Saas Grund, an area that offers a profusion of superb peaks that break through the 4,000m contour. Spending as much time as possible operating from the excellent mountain huts, the course is progressive, to allow acclimatisation in the first few days. Then it's full on to climb as many 4,000 metre peaks as possible within the week. In previous years, course participants have frequently managed to climb four 4,000ers in a week! This course is suitable for those with previous alpine climbing experience and is a brilliant follow-on to our Alpine Introduction.

• Combine this course with the 4000ers Mont Blanc Extension... [read more]

Course base: Saas Grund, Switzerland

Possible Mountain Routes

Jegihorn (3,206m) - SE face.
Though not 4,000m, the Jegihorn is an ideal way to start our week. It is a quick ride on the Hohass from Saas Grund to 3,100m. From here we approach the Jegihorn, a rocky peak which serves as excellent training and acclimatisation. Following a rope skills session, we climb the SE face, which has been equipped with a 'via ferrata'. This gives a fine outing and from the summit there are superb views across the valley to the big peaks of the Mischabel and Nadelgrat, as well as south towards the Weissmies.

Weissmies (4,017m) - traverse via the SSE and SW ridge.
The ascent is made from the Almageller hut via the South-South East (SSE) ridge and descent by the South West ridge and West North West flank. The climb involves sections of up to 45° angled slopes and provides an excellent outing on snow and glaciated terrain (PD).

Following a drive up the valley to Saas Almagell, there is a pleasant 3-hour walk to the Almageller Hut, initially through delightful forest and then open meadows and moraine. Climbers leave the hut by torchlight to gain the SSE ridge which is followed on rock and snow slopes to a steepening in the ridge where scrambling remains to the summit and fantastic views. The descent via the WNW flank is not without interest and passes through some impressive crevasses and seracs to the Hoshaas lift and restaurant and a well deserved beer. From here we may descend to the Weissmies Hut to be positioned below the Lagginhorn.

Lagginhorn (4,010m) - WSW ridge.
A striking mountain with varied mountaineering interest, situated above the Weissmies Hut. The standard route follows the West-South-West Ridge mostly on rock, although the upper section is normally mixed (PD).

The ascent is predominantly on rock although the final third can be a mixture of snow and rock or entirely on snow, particularly early in the season. After ascending open slopes, the summit has a very exposed feel which adds to the grandeur of the peak. The descent follows the route of ascent.

Allalinhorn (4,027m) - traverse via Hohlaubgrat.
The East-North-East-Ridge (Hohlaubgrat) provides the most direct route up the Allalinhorn from the Britannia Hut and involves a glacier approach and long snow ridge, leading to a short rock barrier just below the summit (PD+).

The comfort of the Britannia Hut is reached in a 30-minute walk from the Metro Alpin lift station. The following day starts with a 10-minute descent to the Hohlaub Glacier and this is followed to gain the NE ridge which steepens at a 30m rock step. This soon leads to the summit and spectacular views of the surrounding peaks. The descent follows the 'voie normal' (WNW ridge) back to the Mittel Allalin station.

Alphubel (4,206m) - SE ridge.
The most southerly peak of the Mischabel chain is one of the most popular summits that we climb regularly on both the Saas 4,000ers and Zermatt 4,000ers courses. The South-East ridge (PD) can be easily accessed from Saas Fee via the Langflue cablecar or the new Metro railway to Mittel Allalin. This is a snow climb, with a delicate summit ridge, which can be tricky if icy. Alternatively, we may climb the East Flank (PD-).

It takes between 2 and 3 hours to reach the Alphubeljoch (3,773m), depending on whether we start from Langflue or Mittel Allalin. From the pass the route climbs up onto the SE ridge and follows a narrow crest, before the ridge broadens and we reach the Eisnase (ice-nose). Normally, with good snow cover, the route zig zags up a 40 degree slope on this crux section at 4,100m. It's another 100m to the summit from here, which provides glorious views across the Zermatt skyline.

Nadelhorn (4,327m) - NE ridge.
The Nadelhorn forms the centrepiece of the Nadelgrat and its NE ridge provides a varied and interesting climb, mostly on snow, from the Mischabel Hut (PD).

This is a climb of contrasts that packs a lot into the ascent. It starts with a 4-5 hour ascent to the superbly positioned Mischabel Hut up an improbable rock ridge which is equipped with cables, steel rungs and a ladder. The route the next day is relatively short and direct. It climbs the ridge behind the hut for about 250m and then traverses across the Hohbalm Glacier to the Windjoch (3,850m). From the Windjoch, the NE ridge is followed on snow and rock to the tiny summit block, where space is at a premium. Descent is by the ascent route.

Typical Programme

4000ers Mont Blanc Extension

Further Information

Latest Reports & Photos (Sep '08)

News items: Saas 4,000ers photos (Jul '08) Weissmies photo from last... (Jul '07) From our own correspondent... (Jul '06)

Dates

Prices (choose currency)

Expeditions

Other Courses at this Grade