Oberland 4000ers
Duration 8 Days » Grade Intermediate
 Summit ridge of the Monch Photo: © Alun Richardson
The Oberland 4,000ers course is based around a trio of ascents on the sought after Bernese Oberland peaks, the Mönch, the Jungfrau and the Finsteraarhorn. These peaks offer a choice of superb and coveted routes, many of which are high on the tick list of ambitious alpinists. We also plan to climb the Gross Grünhorn as part of our mountaineering circuit, thereby climbing a total of four 4,000m peaks in one week.
To provide us with the flexibility to meet this aim, we organise the course at a 1:2 guiding ratio. Once we have taken the Mönchsjoch Railway into the mountains, we are based in huts throughout the week. For those looking for a step up from either our Saas 4,000ers or Zermatt 4,000ers courses, this is a physically tough and ambitious trip into a superb and remote mountain range.
- Combine this course with the 4,000ers Mont Blanc Extension... [read more]
Start point: Grindelwald, Switzerland
Possible mountain routes
The Oberland 4,000ers course differs from our other 4,000ers courses, in that we are based in huts throughout the week and follow a planned circuit. The following peaks are typically climbed in order:
Gross Grünhorn (4,044m) - by SW Ridge (PD+)
Sandwiched between the Aletsch and Fiescher Glaciers, the Gross Grünhorn is well-positioned as our first climb on the Oberland 4,000ers course. It is a fine looking peak and an excellent objective. From the Koncordia Hut (2,850m), the South West Ridge is an enjoyable and varied outing at the upper end of the grade. After reaching the summit, we descend via the South-East flank to the Finsteraarhorn Hut.
Finsteraarhorn (4,274m) - by SW flank and NW ridge (PD)
The South-West Flank and North-West Ridge (PD) is the most straightforward route on the mountain. From the Finsteraarhorn Hut, the route climbs a steep snow slope and crosses a saddle before reaching the NW ridge. From here, the climb is mainly on rock to the summit. Though graded PD, the consensus from our regular guides is that the mixed climbing on the final ridge should be guided at no less than a 1:2 ratio. We descend via the same route back to the Finsteraarhorn Hut.
Jungfrau (4,158m) - by the SE Ridge (PD)
The third highest peak in the range is undoubtedly one of the highlights of this week and should not be missed! The South East Ridge (PD) from the Monchsjoch Hut is the normal route. We cross the Jungfraufirn, and climb steep mixed snow and rock to the Rottalsattel, at the base of the summit tower. From here, we traverse a steep snow and ice slope which leads to the easy but exposed summit ridge. Descent is by the same route, back to the Mönchsjoch Hut.
Mönch (4,107m) - by the SE Ridge (PD+)
The 'monk' has four angular ridges, each of which can be climbed from the Mönchsjoch Hut. We chose the standard route via the SE Ridge. Situated directly above the hut, this a fine climb up an exposed snow ridge with several easy rock steps. After our ascent, we return to the valley via Mönchsjoch Railway.
Typical Programme
| Day 1: | Saturday.
Course participants meet at the course base at 7pm. Briefing on the week's activities in the evening. |
| Day 2: | Sunday.
Ascend to the Jungfraujoch on the train. Drop down to Koncordia Hut (2,850m). Afternoon skills refresher. |
| Day 3: | Monday.
Ascent of Gross Grünhorn (4,044m) by SW Ridge (PD) 4-5 hrs from hut. Descend to Finsteraarhorn Hut. |
| Day 4: | Tuesday.
Climb Finsteraarhorn (4,274m) by SW flank and NW ridge (PD) 4-5 hrs. Descend to Finsteraarhorn Hut. |
| Day 5: | Wednesday.
Glacier trek round to the Mönchsjoch Hut via the Grünhornlücke col (3,286m). In 2008, due to the crevassed nature of the upper Fieschergletscher and unstable hanging seracs below the Gross Fiescherhorn (4,049m), it was unsafe to attempt this peak from the Finsteraarhorn Hut. If conditions change, it might be possible to climb the Gross Fiescherhorn (4,049m) and continue to the Mönchsjoch Hut. |
| Day 6: | Thursday.
Climb the normal route on the Jungfrau (4,158m). Descend to Monchsjoch hut. | | Day 7: | Friday.
Climb the normal (SE) route on the Mönch (4,107m) and descend via Mönchsjoch Railway. |
| Day 8: | Saturday.
Dispersal. Breakfast is provided on the last morning before climbers leave the course. |
4000ers Mont Blanc Extension
An opportunity to climb Mont Blanc, after completing any of the 4000ers courses. We aim to climb via the North East Ridge from the Col du Midi, depending on conditions...[read more]
Find out more about our Course bases, Course Inclusions and Exclusions, Course Directors and Guiding Ratios... [read more]
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Dates
| Joining in | Grindelwald
£1,450 |
| Insurance | Course Only
£48 |
| Optional Single Room £15 |
Expeditions
If you have the skills & fitness required, then Jagged Globe offers a wide range of exciting expeditions [read more]
Other Courses at this Grade
These courses have a similar grade and might also suit you. They are all considered to be 'intermediate courses'.
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