Monte Bianco

On this 8-day course we climb Mont Blanc, Western Europe's highest mountain via the Aiguilles Grises route (PD+) from the Italian side. After training on peaks above Chamonix and acclimatising on Gran Paradiso (4,061m) in Italy, we ascend to the Gonella Hut, which is due to re-open in July 2009, following refurbishment. The Aiguilles Grises route is a long and physically demanding climb, but it does not have the objective dangers associated with the North East Ridge from the Cosmiques Hut. If we are unable to try the Aiguilles Grises route, we will climb via the the Goûter Route (PD), as this is most frequently in condition.

Giving ourselves 8 days to prepare for and make the ascent of Mont Blanc allows plenty of time for thorough acclimatisation and a chance to build up gradually to what is a major mountaineering undertaking. We hope to give you an enjoyable and exciting ascent of Mont Blanc with less to worry about in terms of altitude and to some degree, fitness. Although a reasonable level of fitness is, as ever, a pre-requisite for any ascent of Mont Blanc, a longer build-up will allow time to ease both mind and body back into 'Mountain mode'. Standing on top of Mont Blanc is a major event in any mountaineer's career, and it is all the more enjoyable and memorable when undertaken after careful preparation. We begin with some training around Chamonix, re-familiarising ourselves with ice axe and crampons and gradually starting our acclimatisation by ascending two relatively straightforward, but well placed peaks, gaining confidence on both snow and rock.

We then travel to Italy to make an ascent of the Gran Paradiso (4,061m), the highest point entirely in Italy. The ascent covers glacial terrain on moderately angled snow and ice, before scrambling up a short rocky ridge to the final summit, and excellent views back towards Mont Blanc. This ascent provides the final touch to our thorough acclimatisation programme and it is an excellent peak in its own right.

The Aiguilles Grisesis graded PD+ and takes 8 hours to the summit from the Gonella Hut. It is probably the most esoteric of the moderately graded routes to the top of Mont Blanc and has been much enjoyed by climbers on previous courses. The ascent from the Gonella Hut is longer and much more strenuous than most routes from the French side. The descent from the summit to Chamonix is by the Grand Mullets or Goûter Route.

Experience required
This course is for fit mountaineers with previous Alpine experience on intermediate level climbs and is designed to optimise your chances of reaching the summit, by providing more time to get acclimatised first. If you have completed, for example, one of our 4,000ers courses, you might consider this course. However, if you have only used crampons and an ice axe occasionally, for example, on an Introductory Long Weekend in Scotland, we recommed that you join our Alpine Introduction course, followed by the three-day Mont Blanc Extension.

Alternatively, you can climb Mont Blanc as a 3-day extension to our intermediate level courses in Switzerland, the Saas 4000ers, Oberland 4000ers or Zermatt 4000ers courses.

Course base: Chamonix, France

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