Chamonix Climber
Duration 8 Days » Grade Advanced
 Climbers on the Midi Plan Traverse Photo: © Jonathan Griffith
The Chamonix Climber course is a great opportunity for those with Alpine experience to tackle some of the more challenging routes in the Mont Blanc Massif. The guiding ratio of 1 guide to 2 climbers opens up a wide range of exciting climbs on rock, ice and mixed terrain, and enables you to climb some excellent and famous routes. To get the most from this course you are advised to be fit and be confident seconding rock up to Hard Severe and ice up to Scottish grade III. However, those booking as pairs can be catered for, whatever their ability.
Course base: Chamonix, France
Possible Mountain Routes
The list of possible climbs in the Mont Blanc Massif is endless, but the following routes demonstrate the variety of climbing available, allowing you to concentrate on particular skills, such as rock climbing, ice climbing, or general alpinism. To whet your appetite, we recommend you get hold of a copy of Gaston Rebuffat's 'The Mont Blanc Massif - The One Hundred Finest Routes'.
Dent du Geant (4,013m)
This is a fine rock spire on the frontier ridge between France and Italy, close to the Grandes Jorasses. The normal route is on rock (AD) and is in a tremendous situation overlooking the Mer de Glace and the Val d'Aosta. The approach is on snow, and can be extended to include the superb Rochefort Arete, thus taking in another 4,000m peak.
Aiguille du Chardonnet (3,824m)
The Forbes Arete is one of the best known ridges in the Mont Blanc Massif and it is justifiably popular. An interesting and quite steep snow climb leads to the knife-edge snow arête which continues to the summit in a breath-taking situation.
Aiguille du Grepon (3,482m)
The Mer de Glace Face of the Grepon is a classic Chamonix mountain rock climb, steeped in history. Equally good, but longer, is the traverse of the Grepon and the neighbouring Grands Charmoz. Both offer excellent outings giving good practise in swift and efficient rock climbing techniques.
La Tour Ronde (3,792)
The short but steep North Face is a highly coveted route which provides a good introduction to sustained Alpine ice climbing, up to 55 degrees steep. Highly recommended for aspiring north face climbers!
Petit Dru (3,733m)
This is perhaps the most famous rock spire in the Alps, and looks spectacular from Chamonix. The Normal Route is a Difficile rock climb which will give a fit team an tremendous challenge in an amazing location, overlooking the Bonatti Pillar. There is also a possibility of extending the climb over the Grand Dru (3,754m) to complete a traverse of both peaks.
The Midi - Plan Traverse (3,842m - 3,673m)
This well known high level climb traverses the long ridge between the Aiguilles du Midi and du Plan. It is mainly on easy snow, with several sections of grade II and III rock climbing. It is an ideal route for getting acclimatised and can be climbed in one day, thanks to the presence of the Midi telepherique.
Aiguille Verte (4,121m)
The Whymper Couloir is a long and classic snow climb which will test any fit team. This is a real Alpine experience!
Aiguille du Peigne (3,192m)
The Papillons Arete is a short but superb rock climb on a fine arête overlooking Chamonix. The climbing can be quite hard (Grade V) but it's low altitude means it can be climbed in a day from Chamonix, and when the weather is poor in the higher mountains.
Typical Programme
| Day 1: | Saturday.
Course participants meet at the course base 7pm. Discuss the week's activities in the evening. |
| Day 2: | Sunday.
Walk up to the Albert Premier Hut. Practice techniques and ropework as required. |
| Day 3: | Monday.
Climb the Forbes Arete on the Chardonnet. Descend to Chamonix. |
| Day 4: | Tuesday.
Take the Midi telepherique and descend to the Cosmiques Hut. |
| Day 5: | Wednesday.
Climb the North Face of the Tour Ronde and descend to the Torino Hut. |
| Day 6: | Thursday.
Climb the Dent du Geant, return to the Cosmiques Hut. |
| Day 7: | Friday.
Do the Midi Plan Traverse, or a shorter route such as the Cheri Couloir, South Face of the Midi or the Cosmiques Arete, telepherique to Chamonix. |
| Day 8: | Saturday.
Dispersal. Breakfast will be provided on the last morning before climbers leave the course. |
Find out more about our Course bases, Course Inclusions and Exclusions, Course Directors and Guiding Ratios... [read more]
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Dates
| Joining in | Chamonix
£1,395 |
| Insurance | Course Only
£48 |
| Optional Single Room £15 |
Expeditions
If you have the skills & fitness required, then Jagged Globe offers a wide range of exciting expeditions [read more]
Other Courses at this Grade
These courses have a similar grade and might also suit you. They are all considered to be 'advanced courses'.
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